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| (from Wikimedia Commons) |
When you think of South Korea, you'll associate it with K-Pop, heavy technological industrialization, or even the tensions it has with the "other" Korea. However, beyond these modern elements, South Korea also has a traditional side where the most representative place is Andong Hahoe Village. This hamlet is said to be the capital of Korea's traditional culture as it stuns in architecture and festivals, and was even chosen as a highlight during Queen Elizabeth II's visit to Korea. But maybe the most striking aspect is that the inhabitants are stuck in the past: the houses are made of mud, they cook with firewood instead of ovens, and a simple television would look otherworldly here.
The story tells that the founders of Hahoe were a group of intellectual Confucian scholars, although they weren't very original at choosing a name. That's almost a fact because Hahoe literally means "Where the river turns around", as it is built next to a river meander (a meander is precisely where a river bends). On the other hand, they put too much effort into planning the village. The residences of the nobles are in the middle, surrounded by the peasants' houses which are built facing all directions; something unusual in South Korea, as here, most houses look to the south. Next, Hahoe supposedly has the shape of a sailboat with a central 600-year-old tree acting as a sail. This tree has its own name which is Samsindang, and it is said to be the residence of the goddess Samsin. Additionally, the tree is very important since it hosts one of the highlights of the Andong Mask Dance Festival, a dramatic theater show dedicated to Samsin where performers act with traditional masks and much talent.
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| Samsindang, the guardian tree (from Wikimedia Commons) |
These masks receive the name of Hahoetal, and their deep-rooted legend is worth mentioning. Once upon a time, a craftsman called Heo was ordered by a spirit to do 12 of these masks to save Hahoe Village from a famine, with the requirement that nobody had to see him crafting them. Yet, a girl who was in love with him did; consequently, the spirit killed Heo, and the girl would later die of sadness. After this tragic end, the villagers honor Heo every year with these traditional dances and a big parade. Another detail that can't be missed are the particular fireworks of Hahoe, which consist of setting fire to some bags filled with charcoal that hang from a rope. This rope is hung from one side of the river to the other, making it all look more epic.
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| Hahoe Mask Festival (Wikimedia Commons) |
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| Beautiful sailboat-shaped Hahoe (Wikimedia Commons) |
The construction was started in the 16th century by a prominent Confucian scholar called Yi Hwang. He spent 4 years of his life on this mound building the main part of Dosan Seowon, which eventually made him lose contact with the world and regard an apricot tree as his best friend. In other words, he got a bit crazy for us Westerners, but he is a sort of idol for Confucians, as the apricot tree symbolizes the three virtues of this philosophy.
When he died, he had been teaching for more than 15 years in this remote location, so, to honor him, his students expanded the initial seowon. To give you an idea, Yi Hwang built the lecture hall, Dosan Seodang, while his students built Nongun Jeongsa, a dormitory for their students (the students of the students of Yi Hwang). After studying this place briefly, you can learn more info on its official website. To sum up, the whole of Andong is a present-day region which hasn't quite evolved, full of traditions and legends.
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| Yi Hwang (from Wikimedia Commons) |
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